OIL     

CLEAR SPRAY URETHANE

SOAP

AVAILABLE FOR WOOD TYPES

cherry, walnut, ash, beech, oak, maple

ash, oak

cherry, walnut, ash, beech, oak, maple

WHAT IT IS

-shop-made mixture of boiled linseed oil, spar varnish and mineral spirits

-liberally applied with a brush, left to absorb 1/2hr then vigorously rubbed with cloths to remove excess

-between 2 and 7 coats applied (1 coat/day) depending on wood & sheen req’d

-WATER BASED low VOC (85g/L) clear pre-catalyzed acrylic/urethane blend

-applied with HVLP spray equipment

-between 2 and 4 coats applied

-100% white soap flakes mixed into a slurry with warm water

-applied with a sponge then vigorously rubbed with cloths to remove excess

APPEARANCE

-deepens natural tones

-low sheen with exposed wood texture

-acquires patina over time

-very light tone- like bleached bone on ash

-as close to “raw wood” as is possible

-can be very light applied directly to wood or applied over oiled or stained wood

-sits “on” wood as membrane

-low/mid sheen- 20degree reflectivity

MAINTENANCE

-clean/dust with damp (not wet) cloth

-otherwise, no maintenance req’d

-if deep scratches or burns occur, there is little a customer can do to repair

-consult a professional finisher

-clean/dust with damp (not wet) cloth

-stubborn stains can be rubbed with a scouring pad (always rub with the grain, never across!) and Murphy’s Oil Soap

-deep scratches or burns can be dry sanded out with fine 220grit paper (always sand with the grain, never against it)

-mix soap slurry and re-apply to repair damage

ADVANTAGES

-requires no maintenance except periodic cleaning

-withstands liquid spills, resists stains and minor scuffs better than any other finish

-as close to unfinished “raw wood” as is possible

-luminous quality on light woods

-easy for homeowner to repair minor scratches and stains

-moderate resistance to liquid spills

-a piece can be kept in either pristine condition with diligent maintenance or allowed to acquire an elegant patina with marks becoming part of its story

DISADVANTAGES

-although the most durable, if damage occurs to finish piece must be repaired professionally

-full stripping + refinishing may be req’d

-least resistant finish to stains and liquid spills

-requires periodic oiling

RECOMMENDATION

-for someone who want ease-of-use along with a uniform sheen

-if wood is stained/coloured beneath, clear spray is recommended

-ideal finish for more formal pieces or built-in cabinetry

-for the purist who has to have the “raw wood” appearance and experience

-great on chairs and table bases

-for wood lovers!

-nothing beats the silky tactility of oiled wood but owner must be willing to spend a couple of hours each year re-oiling to keep it looking its best

-nicest finish on freestanding furniture

HUMIDITY: All our pieces are designed and built to withstand seasonal humidity fluctuations. Do not keep wood furniture in damp locations.


SUNLIGHT: Try to avoid placing your piece in direct sunlight. Damaging UV rays are hard on wood and can variably bleach or darken many species.


HEAT: Close proximity to heating/cooling registers can dry out wood to the point of cracking or cause warping.


SPILLS: Always clean liquid spills asap after they occur. 


AND REMEMBER... PLEASE USE COASTERS

-clean/dust with damp (not wet) cloth
-all surfaces should be oiled once a year or more as req’d 
-stubborn stains can be rubbed with a scouring pad (always rub with the grain, never across!) and Murphy’s Oil Soap
-customers can purchase VOC-free Danish oil by “Tried and True” from Lee Valley Tools- CLICK HERE for link
-deep scratches or burns can be dry sanded out with fine 220grit paper (always sand with the grain, never against it) and re-apply oil to entire areahttp://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=45105&cat=1,190,42942http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/page.aspx?p=45105&cat=1,190,42942shapeimage_1_link_0